USE YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Every home sewing machine uses a variation of the same basic
threding system, but each one is slightly different. When my machine is not
stitching well, I immediately check to see that both the bobbin thread and
neend needle thread are properly set, wich usually is couse for the problem.
Learning to threade your machine properly is moste
importent!
www.howstuffworks.com
(how a sewing machine works)
Tension setings:
·
the needle 'thread' tension is too tight
·
the bobbin tension is to loose
When the tension is properly adjusted, the two threads will
make a tiny knot between the two fabric layers.
TOOLS YOU'LL NEED
·
measuring tape
·
tailor's chalk
·
seam ripper
·
shears
·
pinking shears
·
pins
·
hand sewing needles
·
thread
SEWING TECHNIQUES
Basic hand sewing
stitches
Thread a needle with a single strand of thread, and make
small knot in the end of one thread.
(Back stitch, straight stitch or runing stitch, zig-zag
stitch)
Straight stitch is most commonly used in sewing and
you can adjust the stitch's length. Regular stitch lenght is 2.5 mm – 3 mm and
longer lenght 3.5 mm – 4 mm.
Zig – zag stitch it is little stretche stitch. Used
for sew edges of the seam. That prevent the fabric to tear on edges.
Back stitch we secure the beginning and of the row of
stitching to keep the stitches from raveling.
Position the needle a couple stitches ahead of where you
want to start stitching. Then press the machine's reverse button to stitch
backwords to the point where you want to stitching line to start, release the
revers button, and start stitching forward as you normally would. At the and of
your stitching line, again push the machine's reverse button, and sew a couple
stitches in reverse.
CHOOSING FABRIC
A woven fabric is made on a loom from threads that run
vertically and horizontally.
Woven Fabrics Woven fabrics are made by using two or more sets of yarn interlaced at right angles to each other. Much variety is produced by weaving. Woven fabrics are generally more durable. They can be easily cut into different shapes and are excellent for producing styles in garments. However the raw edges ravel or fray easily and need to be protected. Fabrics having more fabric count (number of wrap and weft yearns present) keep the shape well. Low count fabrics are less durable and may snag or stretch. - See more at: http://www.textileschool.com/School/Fabrics/WovenFabrics.aspx#sthash.ZvaAIYdj.dpuf
Woven Fabrics Woven fabrics are made by using two or more sets of yarn interlaced at right angles to each other. Much variety is produced by weaving. Woven fabrics are generally more durable. They can be easily cut into different shapes and are excellent for producing styles in garments. However the raw edges ravel or fray easily and need to be protected. Fabrics having more fabric count (number of wrap and weft yearns present) keep the shape well. Low count fabrics are less durable and may snag or stretch. - See more at: http://www.textileschool.com/School/Fabrics/WovenFabrics.aspx#sthash.ZvaAIYdj.dpuf
A knit fabric is made on an industrial knitting machine,
generally from a singel, continuously looped, or knitted, thread, in much the
same way as a sweater is knitted by hand.
knit fabric |
jersey |
Stretch vs. Non-stretch fabric
Two basic fabric categories: fabric with or withaut stretch.
Any fabric can be manufactured with stretch. And many traditionally nonstretch
fabrics are made with added Laycra or spandex, which are thin rubber threads
that run through one or both directions of the weave or that are worked into
the knit.
How to sew a stretch fabric?
The seams must be able to stretch, or they will pop and
break.
You can use:
·
a longer lenght 3.5 mm – 4 mm straight stitch
·
a very narrow zigzag stitch
·
a special stitch
Which needle do I use?
For sewing stretch fabric I use a ball – point needle or
Jersey needle.
Which thread do I use?
I use polyester thread. That thread is used for all fabric.
PREPERING FABRIC FOR SEWING
We need to wash all fabric with natural fibers (cotten,
line, denim) that preshrinks the
fabric. It's importent to wash and dry befor we start cutting patteren pieces
from it.
Lay the fabric flat. And smooth it from the center towards
the selvedges and cut edges. On one sid is fabric's straight grain/grain line
and on the other side is fabric's fold. Up and down cut edges.
TRANSFERING, LAYING OUT A PATTERN ONTO FABRIC
Pin the cut pattern pieces on the fabric, and cut around the
pattern pieces to cut the fabric out. It's key to line up the pattern pieces
with the fabric's straight grain. Most patterns have a grain line arrow printed
on them. Make sure the pattern's grain line arrow runs parallel to the fabric's
selvedge edges.
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